A History of Tea & High Tea

While it's widely believed that afternoon tea originated with Anna Maria Russell, the Duchess of Bedford, in the mid-1800s, the reality is a bit more intricate.

Before we explore the history of high tea, it’s essential to understand one of its key components: tea itself.

The History of Tea

Tea made its European debut thanks to Portuguese traders who reached China by sea in 1557, establishing trade routes to import not only tea but various goods. The Dutch soon followed suit, and by the early 17th century, both nations were actively bringing tea to Europe — the Portuguese from Macao and the Dutch from Bantam (Java). In 1611, the Dutch expanded their imports to include tea from Japan as well.

Between 1613 and 1623, the British East India Company operated a trading post in Hirado, Japan. However, the English had yet to develop a taste for tea, so it wasn't imported at that time. Fearing the dominance of European influence, Japan sealed its borders in 1633.

By the late 1650s, the Dutch began shipping small amounts of tea to London. It quickly became the favored drink of Catherine of Braganza, the Portuguese princess who married Charles II, which further elevated tea's status as a symbol of the elite and loyalty to the crown.

By the time tea reached England, it was typically 18 to 24 months old. Both black and green teas were imported from the outset, with black tea later referred to as "Bohea," named after the Wuyi Mountains in China, where it is grown.

By 1700, English markets offered more than a dozen varieties of tea, each with its own name. To safeguard this prized commodity, tea was stored in locked caddies that servants could not access, and it was dispensed by the lady of the house.

While tea in China is traditionally consumed without milk, adding cream or milk in Europe catered to tastes for richer flavors and masked the often inferior quality of lower-grade teas. "Bohea" became synonymous with these lower-quality black teas, while "Tea" or "T E E" referred to the higher grade.

The quality of tea itself was frequently suspect. Often, leaves were over a year old by the time they reached shops, and some teas were made from reused leaves or mixed with non-tea plant materials like licorice, ash, or blackthorn. This substandard product was known as "smouch." To enhance the appearance and flavor of these fake teas, they were sometimes dyed and coated with various colorants—one notorious example being sheep manure. Yes, you read that right.

Due to the widespread adulteration of tea in both China and England, the public began to favor black tea, avoiding green tea altogether. The passing of the Sale of Food and Drugs Act in 1875 finally curbed these practices.

Thomas Garraway's London coffee house was the first establishment in England to sell tea, with prices ranging from 16 to 60 shillings per pound. In today’s terms, that would translate to approximately $355 to $1065 for less than 500 grams—an expense that was largely beyond the reach of the average person, reserved instead for the nobility.

It took nearly a century for tea drinking to become entrenched in British culture, but once it caught on, it surged dramatically. By 1711, tea consumption in Britain totaled about 142,000 pounds; by 1791, that figure skyrocketed to 15 million pounds, making tea one of the most valuable commodities in the nation.

By the mid-18th century, tea import duties accounted for 6% of the British national budget, and tea was marketed much like modern superfoods, touted even as a cure for the plague.

In 1784, tea duties were reduced, leading to a significant increase in consumption. By the mid-19th century, annual tea consumption per person rose from 1.22 pounds to 3.39 pounds.

The Early Days of High Tea

In the early days of tea shops, the clientele was predominantly male. However, in 1717, Thomas Twining broke this trend by opening the first tea shop for ladies, just eleven years after launching his first coffee house. This era also saw the rise of tea gardens, with the first opening in the historic Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens on the south bank of the Thames in the 1720s—a trend that quickly gained popularity.

Numerous authors highlight the pivotal role women played in popularizing tea in England after its introduction in the 1650s, inspired by the example of the queen. Unlike coffee, which was seldom associated with female drinkers, tea became synonymous with women and social gatherings.

In the 1830s or 1840s (depending on the source), the Duchess of Bedford famously requested a cup of tea and a light snack to bridge the gap between her noontime luncheon and the late dinner served at 7:30 p.m. Finding great pleasure in this routine, she began inviting friends to join her, effectively creating a social event. While the Duchess played a significant role in popularizing afternoon tea, mealtimes were already evolving, and the concept of a light afternoon snack had begun to take hold long before her influence.

It was the Duchess, however, who codified the practice of afternoon tea. As a lifelong friend of Queen Victoria and a noted trendsetter, she helped facilitate the widespread adoption of this delightful ritual. By this time, tea gardens and shops were well established, and cookbooks were already circulating recipes for small bites designed for entertaining.

The confluence of tea’s popularity, social interaction, and light refreshments made afternoon tea a natural fit within English society. For many wealthy women, public appearances were rare, making home gatherings essential for socializing. While some escorted women could meet in public venues, the scrutiny of family members, spouses, and restaurant staff often stifled more candid conversations. Thus, private tea gatherings became a cherished pastime among Britain’s women.

These gatherings were not just opportunities for gossip; they also fostered activism and community building. In an era when women could neither vote nor own property, these meetings provided a rare platform for them to voice their thoughts and be treated as equals. In some communities facing financial constraints, women even pooled resources to form afternoon tea groups.

As women defined their private spheres, mealtimes evolved, and as tea prices dropped, afternoon tea transitioned from an occasional indulgence to an established daily ritual, complete with its own etiquette.

Although initially a pastime of the middle and upper classes, afternoon tea eventually found its way into all social strata. Typically enjoyed around 5 p.m., the practice expanded from intimate boudoirs and small drawing rooms into larger drawing rooms and the grand halls of Victorian homes. These occasions often included games and parties, designed primarily for women, although eligible bachelors were sometimes invited to join in the fun.

Tea and High Tea and how it came to Australia 

High tea has a rich history in Australia, woven into the fabric of the nation since the arrival of the First Fleet in 1788. Tea has long been a beloved beverage among Australians of all classes, from convicts to high society. The way tea was enjoyed, along with the accompanying accouterments, often served as a marker of social status and wealth.

In the early years of colonial Australia, access to tea fluctuated greatly. The supplies sent by the British government were often inadequate, but the country’s proximity to trading routes allowed tea to be sourced relatively easily. By the mid-19th century, Richard Twopenny noted that tea could rightfully claim to be Australia’s national beverage. Historians echo this sentiment, suggesting that Australians became some of the most dedicated tea drinkers in the world. Geoffrey Blainey asserts that, by the turn of the 20th century, the average Australian consumed approximately four kilograms of tea annually, even outpacing all of continental Europe in tea consumption by 1890.

During the 1860s, the majority of tea consumed in Australia was sourced from China. However, by the 20th century, this changed as Australians began to drink less Chinese tea and turned their attention to teas from India and Ceylon. This shift allowed Britain to cultivate a sense of ownership over its national beverage, connecting it more closely to the British Empire.

Tea drinking in Australia wasn’t just a social ritual; it was a family affair. Women played a central role in this practice. In her 1897 diary, Evelyn Louise Nicholson noted that in most Australian homes, tea was consumed throughout the day—before breakfast, at lunch, and even during dinner. This tradition fostered familial bonds and established tea appreciation from a young age.

Afternoon tea, in particular, emerged as a distinct social event in the mid-1800s. As dinner hours in wealthier households extended later into the evening, the need for a light meal in the afternoon became apparent. Initially, this meal was simple, featuring bread and butter, but it evolved into a more substantial social ritual. By the 1870s and 1880s, opulent tearooms in Sydney began offering a variety of treats, including sandwiches, scones, and small cakes, solidifying the notion of high tea.

Interestingly, afternoon tea broke some of the conventions associated with formal social gatherings. Although all members of society drank tea, not every Australian partook in afternoon tea as a ritual. The decline of domestic service necessitated that women engage more in household tasks, limiting their participation in community activities.

Newspapers of the time adopted an egalitarian language when discussing afternoon tea, declaring it accessible to both rich and poor. It was viewed as an affordable form of hospitality, ideal for young housekeepers who could not afford more extravagant social events. However, the need for certain material goods, such as tea sets, created a recurring theme in discussions about afternoon tea. The silver service became a symbol of respectability and wealth, marking a significant distinction between classes.

By 1910, the round table became the preferred choice for afternoon tea, adorned with decorative tablecloths, often of white velvet bordered with gold lace. Velvet tea cosies became fashionable, frequently monogrammed for a personal touch. Theodosia Wallace, in her 1913 etiquette guide, proclaimed that it was Australians who had glorified afternoon tea.

Despite its significance, much of the history surrounding high tea in Australia remains male-dominated and somewhat elusive. Most accounts come from letters, women’s magazines, and newspaper articles, leaving a gap in the narrative about how high tea fully integrated into Australian culture.